Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Thaipusam - Chasing a Chariot

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The lighted chariot, Mahamariaman temple, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

I never had a chance to follow the chariot from the Sri Mahamariaman Temple before and when the chance came I hopped on to it even as I was told I had to be there at 11pm and it'll last till 2am. We were surprised as the streets around Kuala Lumpur wasn't as chaotic or jammed as we feared, even the crowds at Petaling Street and Central Market which were part of the routes to be taken by the chariot was relatively clear of traffic and people.

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The silver chariot with the twin silver horses decorating the front, Mahamariaman temple, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

At 11pm, people were already starting to gather at the Sri Mahamariaman temple where the chariot was already removed from its storage and prominently displayed at the front of the temple. It was about 2 storeys high and decorated with multifaceted bulbs and lighting. The silver chariot is said to be at least a hundred years old and has been used for the ritual of transporting the statue of Lord Murugan to the temple at Batu Caves every Thaipusam. The day before, temple workers were busy preparing for the eventual journey by polishing the silver and cleaning the chariot.

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Mahamariaman temple, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

On advise from Visithra we decided on 4 staging points that we were sure to get a good view and shots of the chariot. It was a no no to stand directly in front of the temple as we soon found out due to the fact that the main crowd of worshipers that were to walk with the chariot were congregating there and it was packed to the point you can't even get close to the chariot. So we positioned ourselves opposite UDA Ocean where we were sure was the first route that the chariot would take. I was surprised to be told that the crowd there was 1/5 of the usual numbers and I can't imagine the streets ti be any more chocked than it was then. People were already lining up by the side of the road and waiting, others were walking along the route and many more just waited anywhere they could to catch a glimpse of the passing chariot.

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Workers preparing the chariot, Mahamariaman temple, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

The chariot moved slowly as it was pulled along the route. In the front a temple worker was pushing through a cart laden with flags and twin torches to signal the way. The chariot towered over the devotees and the people moved like the tide along with it in its wake. Some bore milk containers, others with shaven head though most just walked alongside it chanting prayers. The chariot stopped at several points for the temple workers on it to offer prayers and blessings to the assembled, at times a baby would be passed onto the chariot by their parents for the priests to bless. A lorry carrying musicians lead the way as the rhythmic sound of the drums and flutes can be heard over the cacophony of the crowd. Behind the chariot was the large red truck of the Federal Reserve Unit that was there to ensure that situation remained as it is, it was even more evident after the Hindraf issue.

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Workers preparing the chariot, Mahamariaman temple, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

After it passed us, Visithra ushered us quickly via the back lanes to our next destination. There we were about 10 photographers marching in line to make it in time to the intersection at Kotaraya to beat the chariot. It must have seem funny as we positioned ourselves on the traffic island at the Petaling Jaya intersection in anticipation of its arrival. Police soon came to the scene to help direct traffic, cars were at a near standstill as the roads were closed to allow the devotees and chariot to pass. This was repeated all along its route and we finally arrived at our last vantage point in front of the Menara Maybank to bid the chariot farewell as it headed down Jalan Tun Perak. The chariot will continue on its journey and the faithful will follow along, it was to stop and offer prayers and blessing as it went until it finally arrives at the temple at Batu Caves where the chariot and the statue of Lord Murugan will be housed throughout the celebrations.

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Workers preparing the chariot, Mahamariaman temple, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

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Workers preparing the chariot, Mahamariaman temple, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

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The lighted up chariot, Mahamariaman temple, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

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Slinging the flower garlands over the chariot, Mahamariaman temple, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

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Worker getting the chariot ready, Mahamariaman temple, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

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Chariot in front of the Mahamariaman temple, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

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Flame and flags headed the chariot, Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

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A kid with glow sticks waiting by the side of the road, Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

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The flame of the torch ahead of the chariot, Puduraya, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

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The Lord Murugan chariot making its way to Petaling Street

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Women offering prayers as the chariot makes its way past Menara Maybank, Puduraya, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

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Kavadi bearers moving with the chariot, Puduraya, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

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